Framed Tub Deck Using 2X4 Lumber A leveled frame is built from 2"x4" lumber where the rough opening is approximately 1 inch smaller on all sides than the actual tub. This will allow the whirlpool or soaking bath to drop into the opening without obstruction and for the flange of the bath to rest on the framing
Framed Deck with Bath Installed Ready for Plumbing Connections and Shimming At this point the bath can be dropped in and allow to hang from the framing. Most decks can be built at a height of 20" or higher to allow proper room for setting and installation of the plumbing, waste overflow & drain.
Whirlpool in Framed Deck & Access to the Motor Most building codes require that there is an access door no smaller than 16"x16" in order to access the whirlpool motor. Non-whirlpools do not require this access door. It is easier to locate the access through an adjacent room such as a toilet room or the garage or even a closet. It is less desirable to create an access through the tiled deck or tiled walls because of the cost and difficulty in making the door both attractive and functional. These pictures show a typical access door at framing and then after the whirlpool is installed. The access door should allow the home owner to easily reach in and disconnect the motor from the whirlpool and remove the motor from under the deck.
The pump should be close enough to the access panel to make removal easy and to prevent the unnecessary removal of piping and framing.
Framed Access Door with Electrical Plug In All Izzi whirlpools require an 120 Volt 20 amp GFCI circuit to supply power to the whirlpool motor and light if installed. A standard electrical plug in should be provided within 24 inches of the motor location. Optional equipment such as inline heaters and dual motor systems may require additional power requirements. You should ask your sales representative if you are considering these options. The heat recovery system that is installed to heat the water using wasted motor energy does not use any additional power. This is usually the most efficient way to heat the water and cool the motor.
Shimming After the drain and faucet are connected, the final step is to support under the base of the bath so that the bearing weight is transferred to the floor or slab and not to the framed deck and tile. If the weight is allowed to transfer to the tile, you could have problems with the grout cracking under the weight of the water when filled. Supporting the bottom of the bath is very easy with Izzi baths. You simply find an easy to reach location on the bottom of the bath and shim using pressure treated lumber or cedar shims. Shimming is a simple way to prevent the bath from settling downward when filled with water. It transfers most of the bearing weight to the floor or slab. We do not recommend the use of concrete for supporting under the bath because of the shrinkage that takes place as the concrete dries. It tends to leave a gap that allows the bath to settle when filled. Foam is not an alternative for support, either. Shimming in one location is usually sufficient to support the weight of the bath. Due to the superior construction of the Izzi baths, you don’t have to be concerned with flexing on any of the bottom surfaces of the bath. The floor or bottom of each Izzi bath is approximately an inch in thickness.
Installtion of Izzi Skirted bath
Emerald-5SkR shown without doors installed
Installation of the IZZI Emerald-5SK Left and Right whirlpools
The emerald-5SK is designed for installation into a framed alcove, and function as a bath and shower.
Installation steps
Frame a ledger board on all three walls of the alcove (1x4 or 2x4) so the bath will be suspended by a height of ˝ inch to 1 inch, at its lowest point when slid into the framing. The ledger board supports the tub deck flange and assures a level installation and stable surface for tiling... The height of the ledger varies according to model from 18-20 inches. A field measurement should be performed to assure the best height. Installing the bath approximately 1 inch off the floor provides easier connection of the drain and waste overflow assembly.
After the bath is leveled in the alcove and resting on the ledger board, adjust the support legs to the floor to share the load of the bath with the ledger board.
If the sub-floor is not entirely stable, shims or mortar may also be used to prevent movement. Stepping into the bath is a good test of stability.
At this point, the drain can be connected and the bath water tested.
The tiling flange is intended to prevent leaks and not to attach the tub to the framing. Do not run screws into the tiling flange. Tile board and tile are then installed over the tiling flange
Waste Overflow The waste overflow and faucets are installed after the bath is set into the deck and before setting materials are used to level and secure the bath. This is because it is easier to install the piping to the faucets and the drain when the tub can be moved and adjusted. This part of the installation is usually done by a professional plumber but can also be performed by a handyman or do-it-yourselfer. It is important to use a good quality faucet due to the fact that this area will be covered up and changing it out in the future can be expensive.
Incorrect Sheathing Using Drywall Board This is where you can be as creative as you want. The most important thing to remember is to use the correct subsurface under your tile. Use Durarock or tile board –not drywall– or plywood. It is acceptable to use a plywood sheathing to build your bath deck but this should be covered in a waterproof tile board and not left as the subsurface for the tile. The reason for this is that the tile grout will transfer moisture to the underlying wood and it will swell when exposed to the moisture. The deck can also be built of cultured or real marble. These materials are waterproof and usually are installed in slabs that don’t require any special subsurface.
Izzi Acrylic whirlpool Bath Factory in Clermont Florida 800-214-7440
